Its a Wrap

Right.  This is going to be the last "wrap" post for sometime.  There are only so many wraps one can make and it is is time to move on, but before I do, I have to share with you the ultimate kebab - the Chicken Shawarma. 

Now, I know that a Shawarma should really be cooked by alternately stacking strips of fat and pieces of seasoned meat (beef, lamb or marinated chicken) on a stick and roasting it slowly on all sides in front of a flame for several hours.  And I know that that is not entirely practical for the average kitchen but what I am really trying to recreate here is the wrap, stuffed full of aromatically spiced roast meat, lashings of Tahini or Hummus, a juicy tomato, onion and cucumber salad, shredded lettuce and heaps of chilli sauce.  Rightly or wrongly, that's what I want, when I think - Shawarma.  

The first thing you must do is track down some really good Arabic flat bread which is called Khobez.  Do not settle for pitta. I know you can make your own but what I love about knocking up a kebab for dinner is that it is so damn quick and easy.  If you add, making flat bread to the equation, suddenly its not so damn quick and easy, plus a good pitta is easy to make but a really good flatbread is something else.
 

Anyway, find your nearest Arabic shop, be it Lebanese or Turkish, or maybe you have a good Greek or Cypriot shop near by. (Check out my directory). They are all sure to sell good flatbreads or wraps for Kebabs.  Once you have found them, stock up, because they freeze really well and whilst you are there, pick up some Hummus, unless you want to make your own, and some long green pickled chillis, unless you pickle your own, and if you are really lucky or lazy, depending on how you look at it, some Shawarma Total Seasoning, or you can make your own.  There are a billion different recipes for the spice mix but it usually contains a selection of Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Paprika, Sumac, Cardamom, Clove, Cumin and Cayenne Pepper.  It is this unusual, perfumed blend of spices that makes this dish so delicious. Marinate your chicken, leave it overnight and the next day, you can assemble a fantastic meal in a matter of minutes.  A kebab is even great for entertaining.  Everyone just helps themselves. Because everyone likes their kebabs to be just the way they like them. 


I have entered this recipe for Sweet Heat # 5 over at Vanilla Clouds and Lemon Drops because it is such an effortless recipe to rustle up for friends and goes down great with a couple of beers.



Cheats Chicken Shawarma
The spice mix is not exact.  Experiment and find what you like best. You could use a Baharat blend.

Serves 4
4 Chicken breasts (free-range or organic)
1 tsp. Nutmeg
1 tsp. Cinnamon
1 tsp.  Paprika
1 tsp. Sumac
1 tsp. Cardamom
1 tsp. Clove
2 tsp. Cumin
1 tsp. Cayenne Pepper
2 tsp. salt
Olive oil

Trim the chicken breasts and cut in half lenghtways. Coat each piece in spices.  Leave overnight, marinating in the fridge.  Next day, drizzle lightly with olive oil and either barbecue or grill over a high heat.  You can also try roasting the chicken in a very hot oven.  It should only take ten minutes or so to cook as the pieces are quite thin.  Remove from the heat and allow to rest for a few minutes.  Cut into strips on a wooden chopping board.  Serve with plenty of chilli sauce, shredded lettuce, hummus and salad.

A Mean Marinade

Last week I was cooking Tandoori Chicken, because it was the best recipe for marinated barbecued chicken, that I could think of.  This year the supermarket have gone mad for marinades. Supermarkets are permanently on the lookout for new trends. In this way they can spot whatever it is that you like to do, be it barbecuing, growing your own vegetables, making jam or baking cupcakes. Then they repackage it and sell it back to you, at a profit. I hate it.  I don't know why but it almost feels like an invasion of my mind.

Anyway, as summer came with unsubstantiated promises of al fresco eating and barbecues, so the shelves filled up with every marinade ever thought of, from every country in the world. From Argentina to Japan, Morocco to India. Every now and then, I was tempted by some exotic sounding combination, no-doubt lured by some enticing packaging. I momentarily forgot that I could just have easily knocked up whatever marinade it was myself, in about 10 minutes, from ingredients I probably had at home already. Anyway, they were all, without fail, revolting. Too much sugar, too much vinegar, unsubtle flavours, herbs that had become pickled and lost all freshness and zest. So, just to remind myself never to do that again, I have written out a few of my favourite recipes. 

The first is Chimichurri which is a sauce and also used as a marinade for grilled meat. It is originally from Argentina and Uruguay, but is also used in countries as far north as Nicaragua and Mexico.  It is vibrant and fresh with the Paprika adding a smoky note and it works excellently with Steak on the barbecue.  You can use Picante or Dulce Paprika depending on your taste.  I prefer the extra chilli kick.  There is no need to marinade your meat for any length of time.  Just coat your steaks and wait for 10 minutes or so.  The extra marinade can be used as a sauce on the side.

Chermoula is the North African variant for fish. It is almost identical to Chimichurri, but replaces vinegar for lemon juice which is more subtle with delicate fish flavours.  Once again there is no need to marinade for more than 10 minutes.  Just coat and cook.  Never leave fish or meat in a marinade containing salt for any length of time as it will just draw out the juices.



In my opinion, lamb needs nothing more than a combination of olive oil and lemon juice with lots of freshly ground black pepper, loads of Rosemary and garlic.  In this case the meat should be left in the marinade over-night to allow the flavours to penetrate and the lemon acts to tenderise the meat which makes it all the more delicious.  Season with salt just before cooking. 



Finally everyone need a good rib recipe for the barbie season.  I have really battled over the years to find a recipe that I liked.  I found the Chinese one's were often too heavy on the Hoi Sin and the Five Spice (although I do recommend my Char-Siu Pork ) and the American versions, laden with Tomato Ketchup and Malt Vinegar.  So I was delighted to find a fantastic Japanese alternative.  Although this recipe does contain some honey it balances beautifully with the other ingredients. 

A Japanese Barbecue is called a Yakiniku and the meat would be further dipped in a Tare Sauce before eating. Personally I use this marinade to cook ribs which I slow-bake first submerged in marinade for a few hours until the meat is beginning to flake.  I then pour off the excess sauce and reduce it in a pan until you have a sticky, delicious  sauce.  Let the ribs cool before cutting up, so that they don't fall to pieces.  Finally I briefly put them on the barbie until hot and smoky and serve with extra sauce.  You don't have to do this.  It is still delicious served straight from the oven.  Just slow-cook them for even longer.

All of these recipes are dead simple, so there is no need to ever succumb to a marinade in jar ever again.  And with the money that you save you can invest in better meat.  Remember, please try to buy free-range when you can and Organic if possible.  This really is something that is worth the extra money.

Chimichurri Sauce

1 large bunch coriander
1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 bay leaves
6 cloves garlic
1 1/2 teaspoons smoked paprika, sweet or spicy
1 fresh red chilli, roughly chopped or 1/2 teaspoon Cayenne pepper
1 small bunch fresh Oregano
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1  cup extra-virgin olive oil
1-2 teaspoon salt (or more to taste)
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Whiz up all ingredients in a liquidiser or with a hand-held blender until smooth.  Season to taste with salt.

Chermoula

1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (about 3 lemons)
3/4 cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic, finely minced
1/2 teaspoon sweet or spicy Paprika
1/2 teaspoon Cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon Ground Cumin
1 large bunch of Coriander leaves
1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley leaves
1/2 teaspoon Ras el Hanout (optional)
1-2 tsp salt or to taste

Whiz up all ingredients in a liquidiser or with a hand-held blender until smooth. Season to taste with salt.

Harumi's Barbecue Sauce
from Everyday Harumi: Simple Japanese Food for Family and Friends
by Harumi Kurihara

(Personally I whiz this all up with a hand blender which means you don't have to grate anything.)

100ml red wine
2 tbsp honey
70g caster sugar
200ml soy sauce
1 tbsp miso (any type)
60g apple, grated
60g onion, grated
2 tablespoons garlic, grated
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, grated
2 tbsp sesame oil
3 tbsp ground toasted sesame seeds

Put the red wine in a small pan and bring to a boil. Simmer it over low heat for 1 minute to let the alcohol evaporate. Add the honey, sugar, coarse sugar, soy sauce and miso, mix and boil again. When the sugar has dissolved, turn the heat off. When the mixture has cooled down, add the grated apple, onion, garlic and ginger, sesame oil and ground sesame seeds, and mix together.  The flavour will improve if left overnight.  It can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 10 days.

Indian Summer

My Mum was a really adventurous cook.  Our shelves were full of cookbooks by Robert Carrier and Elizabeth David.  My parents ate out and travelled and I was very fortunate in partaking and experiencing an exciting time in the 70's when people where embrassing a tremendous change in food and restaurants.  

My Mother experimented with many things but I distinctly remember a momentous moment, when what seemed like a huge bowl was placed in the larder, full of Chicken in a Tandoori Marinade.  I thought this the height of sophistication and excitement, which may give you a small clue where my future interests were going to lie.  Anyway, I can't remember the outcome but 30 years later I suddenly have a fascination with recreating this dish again.  What better than chicken, marinated with loads of Indian spices, spicy and vibrant but with none of that horrific red food colouring which has so maligned the dish today. 

But what to serve it with?  I can't remember where I first heard of Kushcumber Salad but today, the weather against all odds being July, was actually hot at times.  I  jumped at the chance, lit the barbecue, chucked on the Tandoori chicken and this refreshing, spicy salad seemed just the perfect accompaniment.  That and a dollop of Raita to cut the heat.  Closest I will ever get to an Indian Summer.

I love exploring local Indian shops and hunting out spices and herbs and all sorts of exotic ingredients but if you are having any difficulty getting hold of ingredients for these recipes, try Seasoned Pioneers.



Tandoori Chicken

1 kg chicken, legs are best (Free-range and Organic if possible)
1/2 cup plain yogurt
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon peeled and grated ginger root
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper
2 teaspoons salt, or to taste

Skin Chicken and trim all visible fat.  Cut into drumsticks and thighs. Prick the flesh of the chicken all over with a fork. Then, using a sharp knife, cut slashes in the flesh to allow the marinade to penetrate. Place the chicken in a nonreactive large, shallow dish.

Combine the lemon juice, garlic, ginger, cumin, ground coriander, cayenne pepper, cardamom, cloves and black pepper. Stir until well-mixed, then pour the mixture over the chicken and rub it into the flesh, turning the chicken several times.  Leave for 2 hours, then add the yogurt.  Mix really well. Cover and refrigerate 8 hours or overnight. (Do not marinate for longer than 2 days.) Remove the chicken from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before cooking.  Season well with salt.

The chicken may be grilled or roasted. If using a charcoal grill, prepare a fire for direct-heat cooking. Allow the coals to burn until white ash covers them and the heat is moderate.

Remove the chicken from the marinade, pressing lightly to extract excess marinade, and brush with oil. Place the chicken pieces on grill turning often until cooked.



Kachumber Salad

1 small red onion, very thinly sliced or a bunch of spring onions, very finely chopped
1 cucumber
1 fresh red chilli, very finely chopped
4 large tomatoes or a handful of cherry tomatoes, chopped
1 tsp roasted cumin powder
Juice of 1 lemon
Olive oil or Onion Oil
Salt to taste
Handful of fresh coriander, finely chopped
Nigella Seeds

Take your cucumber and cut in half lengthways, remove seeds with a spoon, half again lengthways and then cut into quarter moons.

Add all the rest of the vegetables together. Make a dressing by mixing the lemon juice with the oil.  Season well with salt and mix together with all the rest of the vegetables and coriander.  Do a taste test to see if the seasoning is right for you. Sprinkle with Nigella Seeds.

Jerk

Last week I made Rotis, after a visit to Shepherd’s Bush Market but I felt I should strive to find an even more authentic taste of the Caribbean.  I am not a great fan of Akee and Saltfish, although people have often tried to convince me otherwise, and I always find Rice and Peas just a little disappointing, considered its hype.  So I turned to Jerk, with its authentic mix of spices, such as allspice, nutmeg and the ubiquitous Scotch Bonnet.  Jerk appears to be a term which refers to three different procedures of cooking.  Firstly the meet must be jerked, or stabbed.  Secondly a fiery spice rub must be used. The jerking allows the spices to penetrate the meat. Finally the meat must be smoked, originally in a pit fire but more recently in an oil barrel or steel drum.

I saw a recipe by Jamie Oliver on some program or another ages ago, for Jerk ham which I have always wanted to give it a go, although I felt could not stretch to a whole ham. So I have adapted it with a piece of Smoked Gammon instead, which was a quarter of the price.  As the Gammon is smoked, I felt that it was a more authentic jerk flavour.  The results were really spectacular. It made me realise why I had always disliked supermarket, bought ham.  It makes huge promises on the label but is always such a disappointment.  It is soggy and tastes of nothing but salt.  This was really flavourful and had great texture and is so easy to make and cheap.  It is really worth the effort.  We had it hot as a roast dinner first with cabbage and New Potatoes and then lived of the remainder in sandwiches, for the rest of the week. It was particularly nice in a sandwich with the delicious, spicy Mango Chutney which I made a few weeks ago.

Talking of Jamie Oliver, I have to say that I am currently a bit off him. With a hint of Spring in the air (see below), I excitedly rushed down to my local garden centre today to buy soil and seeds as it is high time to get planting my salads and radishes, peas and beans, ready for bountiful crops in the months to come, only to find Jamie Oliver plastered all over everything - the grow bags and compost, herbs and seeds.  He was everywhere! 

It is bad enough not being able to shop in the supermarket without feeling that he is on every shelf, administering his approval over everything you buy, defying you to dare purchase something that he hasn’t given his sanction to.  And now, the garden centre as well.  Enough is enough!  However, I will forgive him because his Jerk Ham recipe works and because I really rate one book that he wrote, Jamie at Home.  Although, I just noticed that it quotes on the cover “Cook your way to the good life”, and even though I really have cooked about a quarter of the recipes in the book, I still don’t have a multi-million pound mansion in the countryside with acres of manicured vegetable gardens, greenhouses, a gardener and a wood burning stove!  It should have a marginal warning “Cook your way to the good life - though obviously, it’s never going to be as good as mine.”

Jerk “Smoked Gammon”

Adapted from Jamie Oliver

For poaching
1 large piece of Smoked Gammon
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
1 red onion, peeled and cut into wedges
1 teaspoons whole cloves
1 stick celery, roughly chopped
1 leek, roughly chopped
1/2 bunch thyme
1 cinnamon stick

Jerk Marinade
4 fresh bay leaves
1 tablespoons cinnamon
1 tablespoons allspice
½ tablespoon clove
1 tablespoons ground nutmeg
½ tablespoon sea salt
½ tablespoon fresh ground black pepper
6 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
1 red onions, peeled and quartered
4 scotch bonnet chillies, stalks removed
150 ml dark rum
150 ml malt vinegar
1 small bunch thyme, leaves picked

Glaze
1/3 jar fine cut marmalade
75 ml golden rum

Place the gammon in a saucepan, cover with water and add the peppercorns, onion, vegetables and herbs.  Poach for a few hours, depending on weight until cooked through, then remove from the poaching liquid and cool for 30 minutes, remaining covered. (The poaching liquid makes a great stock or base for soup). While it’s still warm, you will need to carefully remove the skin, keeping some fat attached to the ham. With a sharp knife, score the ham by making diagonal cuts across the leg and stab the meat all over with a small knife. To make jerk seasoning, blend all the ingredients in a food processor until smooth. Rub the jerk seasoning all over the ham and scored fat. Cover in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours.Preheat the oven to 180C/gas 4. Combine glaze ingredients in a bowl. Remove ham from the fridge and bake for an hour. Remove from oven, brush with glaze, then continue cooking the ham for another 30–40 minutes, basting with glaze every 10 minutes until golden and sticky.