Showing posts with label Leeks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Leeks. Show all posts

Monday, 14 May 2012

Variations on a Theme.


It has been all work and no play at the moment so I afraid that my blog has been a little abandoned but I am back and hurrah, so is Asparagus.  By that I mean English Asparagus and it marks the end of the hungry gap - that long period between December and April when the root vegetables have come to an end and although Spring is all around us, there is still a long wait for the first spring crops.  This means that we have to make do with the end of the winter crops such as leeks, cauliflower and purple sprouting broccoli, mushrooms and potatoes. 

The current torrential rain and lack of sunshine has delayed Spring crops still further, so I am still struggling with my vegetable boxes to move the menu on from Winter. The potatoes thankfully never seen to disappoint as there is always a different variety that can be exploited to stretch the seasons and a Gratin Dauphinoise never fails to please at a Riverford lunch.  I have learnt to adapted the recipe to include all sorts of vegetables and it is certainly always one of the most popular dishes that I ever cook at my Riverford lunches or indeed, dinners. 

Through until the end of winter I was often adding leeks, mushrooms and lots of garlic. Last week I tried out a really delicious new version with spring greens and bacon but you can use any greens from pointed cabbage to savoy.  All are delicious.  Another variation is to add some anchovy and lots of rosemary.  This is classically known as Jansson’s Temptation and I often add some sautéed chard as well. Absolutely delicious to accompany some Spring lamb and guaranteed to warm you up at the same time.  Just what you need this Spring.


Potato, Leek and Mushroom Gratin
Sometimes I like to add a little truffle oil with the cream.
500 mls Double cream
500g large potatoes, sliced paper-thin
10 sprigs fresh thyme (very finely chopped)
2 tablespoons olive oil
10 sliced mushrooms
3 Leeks, cut in rings and well washed and dried to remove all grit
Salt and pepper, to taste


In a large saucepan big enough to hold all the potatoes, bring the cream to the boil, being careful not to boil over. Season with salt to taste. Add the potatoes and bring back to the boil, stirring gently until the cream thickens. Remove the pan from the heat and test again for seasoning. 

Meanwhile, coat a frying pan with olive oil and place over medium heat. Sauté the mushrooms until golden brown. Add the thyme and season. Remove. Heat another frying pan and sauté leeks in butter and olive oil without colour until soft for about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Arrange 1/2 of the potato mixture on the bottom of a gratin dish. Top potatoes with the mushrooms and the leeks. Finish with another layer of potatoes. Press the layers down with a spatula to condense. Bake in a low oven at about 160 degrees. Cook for 1 -1 1/2 hours until the potatoes are tender. A blunt knife should easily sink in.  


Potato, Spring Green and Bacon Gratin
You could use any greens including Kale or cabbage in this. They are all delicious. You can easily omit the bacon if you are vegetarian.
                   
500 mls Double cream
A handful of rosemary (very finely chopped) 
500g large potatoes, sliced paper-thin 
1 packet of good smoked streaky bacon, cut into lardons
3 cloves of garlic, very finely chopped or crushed
2 tablespoons olive oil
Large bag of spring greens, Kale or a cabbage (stems removed and shredded)
Salt and pepper, to taste

In a large saucepan big enough to hold all the potatoes, bring the cream to the boil, being careful not to boil over. Season with salt to taste. Add the potatoes and bring back to the boil, stirring gently until the cream thickens. Remove the pan from the heat and test again for seasoning.

Meanwhile blanch the greens in a large pan of salted boiling water. Return to the boil and cook for about three minutes. Remove and lay out flat on a dry tea towel and allow to cool. When cool, use the tea towel to squeeze out any excess water. In a frying pan with olive oil fry the bacon until golden brown and crisp. Add the chopped garlic, fry for a few seconds and add the greens. Stir fry for a few minutes and season with salt and pepper.

Arrange 1/2 of the potato mixture on the bottom of a gratin dish. Top potatoes with the greens. Finish with another layer of potatoes. Press the layers down with a spatula to condense. Bake in a low oven at about 160 degrees. Cook for 1 -1 1/2 hours until the potatoes are tender. A blunt knife should easily sink in.



Potato and Chard Gratin with Anchovy 
This is a variation on a famous potato dish called Jansson’s Temptation which I first found in a Jane Grigson Book 
500 mls Double cream
A handful of rosemary (very finely chopped) 
500g large potatoes, sliced paper-thin  
A few handfuls of chard
2 garlic cloves thinly sliced  
6-8 good quality anchovy fillets
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste

In a large saucepan big enough to hold all the potatoes, bring the cream to the boil infused with the rosemary, being careful not to boil over. Season with salt to taste. Add the potatoes and bring back to the boil, stirring gently until the cream thickens. Remove the pan from the heat and test again for seasoning.

Prepare Chard by removing the leaves from the stems. Chop the stems into strips. Blanch first the leaves and then the stems in a pan of boiling salted water for a few minutes each. The stem will take a minute or two more than the leaves. Remove and lay out to cool on a flat surface such as a clean teatowel. When cool, squeeze the excess water from the leaves and roughly chop. In a fryingpan, first saute the anchovies and garlic in the olive oil. The anchovies should dissolve. Next add the stalks and finally the leaves. Season with salt and pepper and stir really well. Taste for seasoning.  In a gratin dish arrange 1/2 of the potato mixture on the bottom, top with the chard mixture and finally top with the remaining potato. Press the layers down with a spatula to condense.
Bake in a low oven at about 160 degrees. Cook for 1 -1 1/2 hours until the potatoes are tender.  A blunt knife should easily sink in. 

Wednesday, 21 March 2012

Staying in !


God, sometimes I miss eating out in expensive restaurants. When I was a young chef, many years ago, most of my meagre weeks wages would have gone on eating out.  It was imperative to research new restaurants, know what was happening, keep ahead of the game.  Now a days most of my weekly wage goes on Ballet lessons for my daughter or Judo lessons for my son.  Now and then we might splash out on lunch at Pizza Express.  The closest I get to a Michelin Star meal is to cook up something special myself and watch Michel Roux at the same time on Masterchef.


So a few weeks ago, I was watching Raymond Blanc's "The Very Hungry Frenchman".  I have to admit it was pretty bad.   He must have said "Oh là là" about 15 times in the first half an hour but you have got to love him and my god, some of that food looked fine.  It's the quality of the produce that is so spectacular; the cheeses, the saussison, the meat .... it is all so fantastic. The program I was watching had a Poulet de Bresse chicken with Morels and I just couldn't stop thinking about it. Even if I can't afford a Poulet de Bresse Chicken -  £40.00 a bird! I can afford a free-range corn fed chicken and I might just stretch to some dried Morels. This is a classic recipe and I love the idea of the use of sherry with the mushrooms.  It is a perfect combination.  It seems like years since I cooked any poncy French food.  Now a days I tend to try and steer clear of all that butter and cream and I don't often attempt restaurant cooking at home, even though I do sometimes miss all the technique; the reductions, the butchery, the sauces and the stocks.  So it was Mother's Day. There was no way we were going out for lunch so instead as a treat, I cooked Chicken with Morels for the family.  It took about half an hour, was super easy and was better than anything you will get in most restaurants, albeit (did you know that was one word!), maybe not one with stars. My treat was no washing-up.



Chicken with Morels and Sherry
Adapted from Raymond Blanc.   I like to serve this with mashed potato.

Serves 4
Planning ahead: the dried morels need to be soaked for at least a couple of hours. You can prepare the chicken half an hour in advance and warm it through in the morel sauce to serve.

For the chicken:
1 tbsp Unsalted butter
4 Chicken breasts, free range/organic, skin off (180g each)
1 tbsp butter
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
25g Dried morels soaked in 250ml of water for at least 2 hours
250g Button mushrooms, sliced
120ml Sherry (I used Marsala)
400ml Double cream

For the leeks:

200g Water, boiling
Large pinch of Sea salt
2 Leeks, medium size, outer leaves removed, washed and cut into 2cm pieces
1 tbsp Unsalted butter

To prepare the morels - drain the morels, reserving the soaking liquid, and squeeze to extract as much of the liquor as possible. Pass the reserved liquid through a muslin-lined sieve to remove any sand or grit and save.

To cook the chicken - season the breasts with salt and pepper. In a large frying pan, melt the butter over a medium heat until it is foaming.
Now is the time to add the chicken breasts and colour lightly for 3 minutes on each side. The skin should be golden brown and crisp. Remove from the pan and reserve. In the fat remaining in the frying pan, fry the button mushrooms for five minutes, or so and then add the soaked morels. Fry for a few more minutes before adding the sherry. Boil for a few minutes and then add the reserved morel liquid and a pinch of salt. Reduce down until you have a few tablespoons of liquid.  Next add the cream and bring to the boil. Check seasoning.  Add plenty of freshly ground black pepper and more salt if necessary.  Place the chicken breasts back in the pan, skin side up, making sure the cream sauce comes up to the level of the skin. Lower the heat to a gentle simmer and cook for 8-10 minutes, depending on the size of the chicken breasts, until they are just cooked through. Do not over-cook or the chicken will be dry.

To cook the leeks - while the chicken is cooking, put the leeks into a saucepan, pour on the boiling water and add the salt and butter. Cover and cook at a full boil for 5–10 minutes until tender.

To finish the dish - Using a slotted spoon, lift out the chicken breasts and place in a warm dish; keep warm. Boil the sauce rapidly to reduce until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Place the chicken breasts back in the sauce to reheat for 2 minutes. Lift the leeks from their liquid and arrange on warmed plates. Sit the chicken breasts on top and pour the morel sauce over and around. 

Variations: Morels are quite hard to get hold of and very expensive.  You can buy them on-line or you could use dried Porcini / Ceps instead.



I entered this recipe to Spring a Leek Recipe Competition which is being hosted this month by Secret Garden Club.

Sunday, 29 January 2012

Something borrowed.....


I have a dinner party for 70 to cook this week.  This is a Riverford Supper Club, so although not a vegetarian meal, it is all about showing off seasonal vegetables.  This month it is Jerusalem Artichokes, Leeks, Kale, Celeriac and Beetroot.  Unfortunately the Purple Sprouting Broccoli and the Cauliflower were struggling due to some cold weather down there in Devon. On the fruit front, it is a toss up between apples and pears.  

So anyway, for a starter, Leek and Parmesan Tart sprang to mind.  I already had a recipe in my head. Three egg yolks to half a pint of cream.  And then I wondered - where did that recipe come from, imprinted in my brain, along with hundreds of others.

In my day of being a chef there was a very simple family tree of restaurants and all young chefs were related to one strain or another.  There was Alistair Little's, Simon Hopkinson at Hilaire and then later on Bibendum, Rowley Leigh at Kensington PlaceSally Clark's or the relatively unknown River Cafe .  That was pretty much it.  All recipes came from either one of them or from Elizabeth David.  And even though I only survived one shift in the kitchen at Bibendum, I still know that my leek tart recipe has somehow trickled down from Simon Hopkinson, to me.

I have only very recently acquired the wonderful Roast Chicken and Other Stories,  although I bought it for my mother many years ago.  But as I said, I don't really need to really look up most of Simon Hopkinson's recipes, because I somehow know them already, but I decided to check and sure enough there it was, just as I remembered it, but with a bit of Tarragon thrown in.  My pasty recipe is his too.  Why?  Just because it always has been.


Leek and Parmesan Tart

For the leek tart filling you will need
110g good butter
8 leeks, trimmed, split lengthways, washed and thinly sliced (white part only)
Salt and pepper
4 egg yolks
450ml cream

Big handful of freshly grated parmesan
One 20.5 cm / 8 inch pastry case

For the pastry
110g of plain flour
50g butter
1 egg yolk
A pinch of salt


First make the pastry, add the butter to the flour and rub in. Add the egg yolk, the salt and enough water to form dough. I do it in the food-processor. Don't make it too dry as it will be very short and difficult to roll out.  However, you must be sure to make sure it is not too wet.  This will make it sticky and too elastic so it will shrink when baked. Chill for 30 minutes.


Preheat the oven to 180C. Roll out the pastry as thinly as possible and use to line a 20.5cm / 8 inch tart or flan tin. Prick the bottom lightly with a fork, and bake blind in the oven for 15 minutes or until pale golden brown and cooked through. Meanwhile melt the butter in a large pan and add the leeks. Season with salt and pepper and cook over a low heat, stirring occasionally, until thoroughly soggy. Then cook until all the juices have gone and the leeks begin to caramelise. It is taking time with this cooking which will make the tart so delicious.  It could take over an hour. Remove from the heat.  Beat together the egg yolks, cream and seasoning and add to the leeks. . Add the Parmesan.  
Stir well and taste the mix and make sure the seasoning is correct. Pour into the pastry case and bake for 20 / 30 minutes or until set and golden brown.  Serve warm if possible with a nice green salad.




Friday, 25 November 2011

More Slow-cooking


Still spending quite a lot of time hanging out with Russel.  We have had some great times and some, not quite so good.  I tried slow-cooking a whole chicken, for example, which was a bit of a disaster.  The legs where good but the breast was horribly dry.  I am still convinced that the best way to cook a whole chicken is to put it in as hot an oven for as little time as possible.  But slow-cooked chicken legs is something else.  Cheaper and tastier than breast, I really had forgotten how good they are.  First up I made a really delicious Chicken, Chorizo and Chickpea Stew.  Next I tried a Chicken, Leek and Bacon Pie filling.  The beauty of the pie mix is you can make up loads and then freeze them.  I have to admit, I haven't bothered making my own puff pastry in years, especially now that you can buy such good ones.  But beware.  Look out for "All Butter Puff". Check the ingredients and if it lists anything other than flour, butter, water, lemon juice and salt then don't buy it.  Jus Rol, for example, ingredients' list as; Flour, Vegetable Oil, Mono and Diglycerides of Fatty Acids.  Yum!  I rest my case.  When you find a good make, stock up and keep it in the freezer.  


I also have to admit that I had actually never made a pie with a base before.  I was always too worried it would have a soggy bottom and I always lost nerve at the last moment and just played it safe with a fool-proof crispy top.  But this time, I finally went for it and it worked perfectly.  It is so exciting when you finally address a fear and conquer it.  A few tips.  A metal pie dish works best as it heats up and quickly distributes the heat for an even crispy bottom.  You can buy them super cheap online from makes such as Falcon Enamelware. No need to buy a whole set, just buy one the right size for your family and then buy it from Amazon.


Second tip, remember to pre-heat your oven and start your pie on the bottom. Finally, make sure that your mixture is not too wet.  If it seems too liquid then take the time to reduce it first, even adding more flour if necessary.  You can do this buy making up a little Roux (cooked butter and flour) and adding the liquid.  Make sure you cook out the flour.  The pie gravy should be creamy and you will have the best pie ever.


Chicken, Bacon, Mushroom and Leek Pie

There is no need to add stock to this recipe.  The juices from the chicken as it steams create enough liquid and mix with the cream, milk and flour to create a delicious sauce.  If you do not have a slow-cooker, cook very slowly on the stove top for 2 hours and add a little chicken stock to prevent from catching.

8 chicken thighs, free-range or organic if possible, skinless and boneless 
2tbsp olive oil  
200g smoked bacon, cut into lardons 
2 leeks, sliced and washed
200g mushrooms, sliced 
Small bunch of thyme, tied up 
3tbsp plain flour, plus extra for dusting 
100mls milk
100mls double cream
1 egg, whisked with a fork
500g good quality puff pastry 

Heat the oil in a medium-large saucepan. Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Add to the pan and cook for 5-8 minutes until golden. Remove from the pan and keep to one side. Add the bacon to the pan and cook until it is lightly golden and crisp.  Add the mushrooms and cook with the bacon for about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and fry for a few minutes more.  Sprinkle with the flour, stir well and cook a few minutes more and add the milk and cream. Bring to a simmer.  Poor into the slow-cooker with the chopped leeks and the thyme.  Set the cooker to low for eight hours or high for six hours.

The chicken should be completely flaky and the sauce should be creamy and fairly thick.  If it is too liquid, it needs to be poured off and reduced.  (See above.) Roll out the pasty to the thickness of a pound coin.  Line the pie dish and press down round the edge with a folk.  Brush the edge with egg wash.  Fill with the chicken mix and top the pie with pastry.  Press down once again round the edge with a folk.  Egg wash the whole top of the pie. Pierce a hole or two in the top to allow any steam to escape while cooking. (If you are making pies to freeze then put them straight in the freezer and follow baking instructions for frozen pies.) Place in the very bottom of a hot pre-heated oven at 190ºC for half an hour and them move up to a higher rack at 170ºC until the pastry is puffed up and nicely golden.

If baking a frozen pie  start it at 220°C for 10 minutes, then lower the oven temperature to 205°C and bake it for 25 to 45 minutes, longer than you would if it were not frozen, depending on how big the pie is.