Amazing Alliums

I cannot tell you how much I love the Allium Family.  Firstly, cooking without onions and garlic would obviously be unthinkable but I am also super-fond of their cousins, shallots, leeks and chives.  Secondly, because I adore their flowers.  Whenever I find a sprouting onion, shallot or garlic in the fridge I always give it to the kids to plant in the garden, which I supplement with the most impressive looking bulbs that I can find from the garden centre and in Spring our garden has a display of fantastic purple and white orbs in varying sizes from the delicate little mauve baubles on the chives right up to the huge spheres in deepest violet of the onions.  Next, you get the onion seeds, which are so delicious for anything from flavouring a Naan to decorating a salad.  And finally, Alliums are scientifically proved to protect against both cardiovascular disease and cancer.  As I said, you can't beat them!



Onions and Garlic are at there best now.  The garlic is just "bulbing" and known as "Wet Garlic" (before they are dried), which means that rather than pealing cloves you can just cut straight through the bulb and slice it like an onion.  It is also delicious baked whole.  Just cut of the top,  season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, fresh herbs like thyme or bay and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil.  Wrap in foil and bake for about 30-40 minutes until completely soft.  The wonderful garlicky puree can then be squeezed out and just squished on some toast or used for all sorts of fantastic dishes.  Try mixing with freshly cooked Borlotti beans, some good olive oil and some finely chopped rosemary and mashing on a piece of Brushcetta (make sure you use a top quality bread such as Poilane). 

All Alliums seem to benefit most by being cooked slowly with olive oil until their natural sugars are released and begin to caramelise.  My freezer seemed to be a bit over-run with pizza dough so I decided to make a couple of Focaccias.  Focaccia is quite simply an Italian bread, similar to a deep-pan pizza that, no matter the topping, should involve a generous amount of Olive Oil.  This acts to produce a golden brown, crispy crust that is to die for.  It has to be fresh out of the oven.  Don't ever believe that it is worth buying a Focaccia from a supermarket shelf.  It will inevitably be a complete contradiction of what it is meant to be - slightly stale, dry and dreary.  You have to make it yourself. And it will be anything but!



The first of my Foccacias' is with caramelised Red Onion, which I just cooked slowly with some Extra Virgin Olive Oil and lots of very finely chopped Rosemary.  The second, I used some confit garlic which I had made a few days ago after finding a glut of garlic in the fridge.

Confit is a method of preserving and cooking very slowly in some type of fat.  The fat acts as a super efficiant protective shield, preventing any oxidation and therefore helping to conserve the contents.  There is no better way of cooking a Duck Leg of a Belly of Pork than this.  The poaching in Duck fat, as I use, renders the fat in the meat, leaving, unbelievably a leaner piece of meat, that is still incredibly succulent and crisps up beautifully with a short burst of high heat at the very end.  With the garlic, it is just cooked very slowly in a good Extra Virgin Olive Oil.  The low temperature will preserve the quality of the oil and you are just left with delicious nuggets of garlic and a fantastic tasting oil. 



The dough I used was just the same as my pizza dough.  Take some out of the freezer (or knock up a fresh batch), allow to de-frost (or prove) and squidge into a frying pan or tin.  Allow to prove again before adding topping of your choice and bake in a hot oven until golden brown.

Confit Garlic

1 cup peeled garlic cloves
Enough Extra Virgin olive oil to cover

Place garlic cloves in a medium, heavy-bottom saucepan. Add the oil. (The oil should cover the cloves).  Heat pan over medium heat. As soon as small bubbles appear, reduce heat to very low (or the lowest setting on your stove: the oil should never reach 180°F and only small bubbles should form in the pan).  Gently cook the garlic for 40 minutes, stirring from time to time, until it is very tender and the cloves look very pale-golden. Remove pan from heat and set aside, allowing the cloves to cool in the oil. Store in an airtight container and refrigerate for up to one week.

Bring garlic confit to room temperature before using, as the oil will firm up when refrigerated.

A Loaf or Three

I have been constantly feeling bad, ever since “Lamenting Lost Lebanese” that I did not include a Pitta Recipe.  What good are all those delicious dips without a warm piece of fresh pitta bread to dunk into them.  So here it is, and if you have never made pitta before you will be amazed how it actually works.  It puffs up, just as it should, and sinks again, to leave a perfect pocket, to be stuffed full of kebab or falafel, dollops of hummus, heaps of salad and lashings of chilli sauce. 

About 20 years ago I was lucky enough to be sent by The River Café, for a stage at Chez Panisse in Berkley, San Francisco, so I came very familiar with the sourdough concept.  And I can still remember the joy of sitting in Fisherman’s Wharf, looking out over the boats and digging into a hollowed-out sourdough loaf, filled to the brim with hot, creamy, smoky clam chowder.  In fact I can feel another post coming on! 

Then, many years later, I had the pleasure of working at Gail Stephens, Baker and Spice (sadly no more) and got used to eating fantastic Potato and Rosemary Bread or Pain au Lavain daily.  Thankfully The Bread Factory, originally Gail Force, lives on.  I own a well thumbed copy of Baker and Spice “Baking with Passion”, by Dan Lepard but I am ashamed to say that my life now allows little time for Biga acida and wild yeasts. 

So, when looking for a suitable rye bread recipe for my Ultimate Salt-beef sandwich,  I was thrilled to find a fantastic “Cucumber Pickle Juice Rye Loaf” by the very same, fabulous (as Gail would say) Dan Lepard in his book “The Handmade Loaf”.  The genius of using the juice out of the pickle cucumber jar, utilizing something which used to go down the drain, as I finish yet another jar of dill pickles, is brilliant.  But even more so, is that the juice acts as the souring and therefore replaces the need of a “sourdough” starter.  I have to admit that on recommendation I added a little more yeast and I still only got one decent sized loaf but it had great texture and tasted delicious.  My brisket in still in the brine but it is ready on Saturday and I hope to share the results with you very soon.

Finally, my own tried and trusted “Challah” recipe, which I have made time and time again.  I am not a great baker but I love going to the Village Bakery, still hanging on in there, sandwiched between “Paul” and “Le Pain de Quotidien”, and buying my fresh yeast. I love the fact that it costs 30p an ounce, in an age where nothing seems to cost any less than a fiver.  I love the smell of freshly baked bread filling the house on a Friday night and there is no better way to unite the whole family, and start the weekend than the taste of that slightly sweet, deliciously soft bread, and the obligatory  glass or two of wine.  Good Shobbas!

Cucumber Pickle Juice Rye loaf

by Dan Lepard

200g toasted rye flour [40%] (see below)

300g strong white flour [60%]

3/4 tsp fine sea salt

350g cucumber pickle juice at 20ºC (70%)

1 1/4 tsp fresh yeast, crumbled (1%) (I added a little extra)

10g [2 good sprigs) fresh dill, chopped (2%)

To toast the rye flour, preheat the oven to 200'C. Spread the

rye flour in a thin layer over a baking sheet, and bake for 15 minutes, or until the

flour has turned a light tannish brown. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

Combine the flours, and mix with the salt. In another bowl whisk the pickle juice

with the yeast and dill. Mix this liquid and the flour together with your hands,

squeezing it through your fingertips. When roughly combined, cover the bowl and

leave it for 10 minutes. Tip the dough out on to a lightly oiled (with corn or olive

oil) work-surface and knead gently for 10-15 seconds. Return the dough to the

bowl, leave for a further 10 minutes, then knead once more for 10-15 seconds.

Return the dough to the bowl, leave for 10 minutes again, then knead one final

time for 10-15 seconds.

Give the dough a turn and repeat after 30 minutes and 1 hour.

Original recipe says “Divide the dough into two equal pieces, and shape each into a round” (but I didn’t, I just made one).  Place both (one) on a flour-dusted baking sheet, leaving a space between for the loaves to grow.  Cover and leave for 1 hour, or until doubled in size.

Preheat the oven to 210"C/'110'F/gas mark 6%.Cut a slash across the centre of

each loaf. Bake in the centre of the oven for 55 minutes, until the loaves are a

good rich brown colour and, when tapped on the bottom, sound hollow. Leave to

cool on a wire rack.

Pitta Bread

Makes 12 soft, yeasty little flat breads. Serve with a Greek salad or dips

375g white plain flour

1 ½ tsp fine-ground sea salt

1 ½ tsp white sugar

1 ½ tsp fast-action dry yeast

250 ml tepid water

1 tbsp olive oil

Mix the flour, salt, sugar and yeast together in a bowl. Stir in the warm water and olive oil and mix until it comes together as a dough.  Add extra flour if sticky, extra water if dry. Knead on a lightly floured surface for 10 min until smooth. Place in a large, clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap and leave to rise for 2 hours in a warm place. Punch the dough down, and knead for 1 minute. Cut the dough into 12 pieces, shape into balls, and set aside for 10 min. Heat the oven to 200C/Gas 6. Roll each ball into a fine, flat oval. Bake on a lightly floured tray for 6 to 7 min, until puffy, soft and pale. Wrap in a slightly damp tea towel until cool. To serve, place in a hot, dry pan for a minute or two until warm.

Challah

This is a big batch of bread. You don’t have to make all of it.  It is about 6 loaves but  I like to freeze the ones I don’t need, once they are proved.  This way, I can remove one from the freezer, defrost, plait and bake at a later date, for perfect instant, fresh warm bread.

2oz Fresh Yeast

3 ½  cups warm water

¾ cup sugar

1 cup oil

6 eggs beaten

1 ½ tablespoons salt

13-14 cups flour

1 egg, beaten to glaze

Poppy seeds or sesame seeds to garnish

In a large mixing bowl combine yeast and 1 tablespoon sugar in the warm water.  Set aside for 5 to 10 minutes.  Once the yeast starts to bubble add the remaining sugar and half of the flour.  Mix well.  Add the beaten eggs and oil and mix well.  Knead in the remaining flour and salt, slowly until the dough is light and easy to knead.  Knead well for a further 10 minutes.  Place dough in an oiled bowl.  Cover with oiled clingfilm.  Leave to rise in a warm spot for 1 ½ hours.  Punch down and separate Challah (with a blessing).

Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and divide into 6 sections.  Divide each section into three.  Roll each into a long sausage shape about as long as your fingertips to your elbow.  Join at one end and plait until you reach the other end. Tuck under and place on a greased baking tray.  Allow to rise for 45 minutes.  Preheat oven to 170º-180 ºC.  Brush loaves with beaten egg and sprinkle with seeds.  Bake until golden brown, about 30 to 45 minutes. The loaf is cooked when taped on the base, it sounds hollow. Remove from tray and cool on a cooling tray.

It also makes the best toast.

The Real Roti

Yet again I find myself craving for another delicacy which I took for granted when it was on my doorstep, when I lived, it seems like a lifetime ago, in Shepherds Bush.  Quashie’s Roti Hut, which I believe is unfortunately now closed, was a regular haunt of mine, for the fantastic goat or Channa (Chickpea) Rotis.  An establishment of irregular hours, you could always tell when it was finally open, by the masses of cars pulled up outside, their doors open, music playing and the hoards gathering,  vaguely threatening outside.  All hoods and bling.  I always felt a bit intimidated queuing, as a certain ethnic minority, and the wait always seemed long. Often it was, but it worth it when you finally got your flaky Roti, each layer sandy, dusty with  cornmeal, inside steaming hot, spicy curry.  Delicious. 

Luckily, even if Quashie’s has now gone, you can still buy fresh goat at Shepherd’s Bush Market.  In fact you can buy it at most good Halal butchers so to recreate the Goat Curry was easy, as was the Chickpea Curry, and both recipes are very tasty. The Rotis skins, as they are called,  proved far more difficult and the first  recipe I give is for a Paratha Roti.  It is fantastically flaky but it is slightly difficult to roll and is better used as a bread to serve with your curry. I am not exactly sure that it is exactly the right roti for wrapping but as much as I search I can’t find a better one. So, I give an alternative method which is rolled raw and then cooked.  I was very sceptical about this method, but it really works and you get a delicious flaky crust.

When researching Rotis, I found it fascinating that a recipe from East India or Sri Lanka could be so identical to one from Trinidad, when geographically they are so far apart. With just the Indian Ocean, Africa and the South Atlantic Ocean separating them, it seems amazing that they could have the same dish on the menu.  It would appear that East Indian contract labourers brought the recipe to the Caribbean and parts of South America as early as the 1840’s and it had become very much ingrained in their current cultures.  In fact it would seem that most food in Trinidad and Tobago has been influenced by East Indian cookery, although it has now transgressed somewhat from the original, to find its own identity. 

                         

Roti (Paratha)

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) plain flour

5 ml spoon (1 tsp.) baking powder

5 ml spoon (1 tsp.) salt

50 g (2 oz)  ghee

cold water to bind

250 ml (1/2 pt) ghee

little extra flour

Fine cornmeal

Sift flour, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Rub in ghee with fingertips until fat is in small flakes. Add enough cold water to make a fairly stiff, but not sticky, dough. Knead well until smooth, then cover bowl and leave to stand for 30 minutes.
Knead dough again for 3-4 minutes, then divide into 8 equal balls. Roll out each ball on a lightly floured board into a circle, about 20 cm (8 in) diameter.
Brush each circle all over with ghee, then sprinkle lightly with flour and a little cornmeal. Fold each circle in half, then in half again. Cover and leave to stand for 10 minutes. Roll out each piece into a circle again, as thin as you can.  Make sure it is evenly thin otherwise parts will not cook. Brush with ghee, then place in a large frying pan or a baking sheet on top of the hob, like I did. Cook on both sides, brushing with ghee again to prevent sticking, for about 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat and clap each roti with both hands until pliable again. Stack on top of each other with fine corn meal in between each one and cover with a towel whilst the other rotis are cooked. It is important to stack them like this to allow them to steam very slightly or they will be to crispy to roll.

I know as a chef I should really be a “bones, fat and all” sort of person, but I am not.  I do not like lumps of gristle or gelatinous fat.  Also, for a roti, you can’t have chunks of bone in it, so for my recipe, I bought leg of goat and asked the butcher to take it off the bone and cut it into small cubes, which he happily did for me. The going price seems to be about £5.99 a kilo.  I also picked up some Curried Goat Seasoning made by Tropical Sun which I had heard is a good brand for Caribean spices.  It is a mix of Coriander, Fenugreek, Cumin, Chilli powder, Garlic, Ginger, Cardamon, Fennel, Turmeric, Black Pepper, Onion, Cinnamon and rubbed Thyme, but obviously you can add whatever combination you like.  I looked at a lot of recipes before adapting this one.  Beware of recipes with Lime Juice in them, as Goat Curry can be quite acidic.  If your curry is slightly acidic add some yoghurt or a little cream to balance it.

Goat Curry

1 kg leg of goat, diced

2 tbsp Goat Curry Seasoning

1 tbsp fresh thyme, very finely chopped

2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Vegetable oil

1 tin of plum tomatoes, chopped

2 onions, finely diced

3 cloves of garlic, chopped

Knob of fresh Ginger, peeled and finely chopped

Water or stock

Handful of coriander

Season the goat with the curry powder, thyme and black pepper and leave to marinate overnight.  Season the meat with salt.  Heat the oil in a pan and cook the goat pieces until golden brown. Do this in  small batches.  Remove the goat with a slotted spoon and add the onions and garlic and some more  oil.  Cook until the onions are soft and just beginning to colour.  Add the tomatoes and then add it to the meat. Cover the meat with water or stock and bring to the boil.  Turn down, cover and cook for a few hours until goat is tender. When ready, remove goat from pan, simmer sauce till reduced by half, then return meat to pan and add a handful of freshly chopped coriander.

Chickpea and Potato Curry

Ingredients
100g dried chickpeas, soaked overnight or 1 tin of chickpeas
2 potatoes, medium-sized
1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 knob of ginger, very finely chopped

1 fresh red chilli, very finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 tablespoon Garam Marsala

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon ground coriander
oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
handful of freshly chopped coriander
spinach (optional)

Soak the chickpeas overnight and then cook for an hour in boiling water. Drain, saving some of the water  and set aside.   If using tinned chickpeas, drain. Peel and roughly cube your potatoes.
In a saucepan fry the onions, garlic and chilli in some oil until soft but only lightly coloured. Add the spices and fry very gently for a couple of minutes.  Next add the potatoes, some salt and pepper and cook until the potatoes have taken on the colour of the spices.  Add the chickpeas and cover with liquid.  Either the cooking liquid from the chickpeas, or just some water. Cover and leave to simmer for 45 minutes or so, until the potatoes are cooked.  Check the seasoning.  Add the coriander and if you like, add a big handful of spinach a minute before serving, and stir through to wilt.

Another Roti Recipe (with curry inside)

4 cups flour

9 tbsp ghee plus extra for brushing and cooking

1 tsp salt

1 cup cold water

In a large bowl, combine the flour and ghee with your hands until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs.  Add the water and knead with your hands until it forms a firm, smooth dough.  If too dry add more water, 1 tbsp at a time and knead again. Wrap in cling-film and set aside to rest for 30 minutes.  Divide the dough into 12 even sized balls.  On a lightly floured surface, with a rolling pin, roll out as thin as possible in a rough circle. Brush with melted ghee. Place a large couple of tablespoons of your curry in the centre of the circle.  Fold over the two side edges first.  Roll out further any areas which now are double thickness, until once again as thin as possible.  Brush with melted ghee and lift over first one flap and then the other to form a cylindrical large spring roll like shape. Fray in a heavy based frying pan in plenty of melted ghee over a medium heat.  Turn until every side is golden brown and crisp.  Don’t forget the ends.