Making Time!

Sorry I have been away a while from my blog. Sometimes life just gets in the way!  And once you get out of the habit of making time for something, you very quickly fill it with something else.

Everyone said that if I took on an allotment, that everything else would suffer, but after 5 years of waiting on the councils waiting list I could hardly turn it down. I was convinced that my growing vegetables would purely enhance my cooking and blogging, and my life would become one unified harmony of sewing seeds, reaping and harvesting; at one with nature and the seasons, creating new recipes with wonderful fresh vegetables, cultivated entirely by my me. 

In reality it had been an all consuming, totally absorbing, battle against nature. Too much rain and the lack of sun, then too much sun and not enough rain along with the catastrophic damage caused by slugs and pigeons and finally the ever ongoing, ever growing trauma of weeds, weeds and more weeds. 

But I am proud to say, considering what I inherited three months ago, which was nothing much more that a patch of land, covered in grass and waste high in weeds.....

..... with a little help from my family, but it has to be said - not a lot (but thank you Hughie for putting up my shed) ...

 ... I finally managed to plant something and ....

.... would you believe it, I have actually managed to grow something ....

...in fact a few things ..... masses of courgettes.

So here are some courgette recipes - the first is for the tiny baby courgettes - deep-fried whole in a light, crispy batter and delicious with a Anchovy and Rosemary Sauce. The second recipe is for when the courgettes are just a little bigger but still have the flowers attached (although it is perfectly delicious just with the courgettes). I have to admit that in the past I have always found courgette risotto a little bland but with the addition of a little tarragon and some lemon zest this version really comes alive and is transformed into something really tasty. Finally, something for when the courgettes grow slightly larger- a Tagine, which I came up with for my last cookery lesson, which had a Middle Eastern theme. Once again I was faced with the challenge of trying to make a rather bland vegetable sing and I think that this Tagine really does work.

So there you go - three "Recipes from the Allotment" to make up for my leave of absence and I promise to follow with many more, as I anticipate my next glut - will it be tomatoes, chard, cucumbers, potatoes or spinach? Depends on the weather... and the slugs and the pigeons..only time will tell!

Risotto with Zucchini and Zucchini Flowers
adapted from The River Cafe cook book
(Serves 4)
8 small young zucchini with flowers
2L chicken stock or 4 Kello stock cubes dissolved in 2 liters of hot water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
100g butter at room temperature
1 medium onion, peeled and very finely chopped
200g risotto rice
200ml extra dry white vermouth or white wine
100g parmesan freshly grated
Fresh Tarragon

Zest of one Lemon

Prepare the flowers by removing the stamens and sepals. Tear each flower vertically into 4 strands. Brush to get rid of any dust or insects but do not wash. Slice the zucchini into fine discs. Heat the chicken stock and check for seasoning.  Melt half of the butter in a large heavy bottom pan and gently fry the onion until soft about 10 minutes. Add the rice and stir until the rice becomes totally coated. Cook for a minute or two before adding the wine. Stirring all the time, wait first for the wine to be absorbed before adding 2 or so ladlesful of hot stock or just enough to cover the rice and simmer, stirring until the rice has absorbed nearly all the liquid. Continue to add more stock as the previous addition is absorbed, stirring all the time. After about 15 minutes add the zucchini slices along with the last two or three ladlefuls of stock.
The zucchini should have a little bite and the rice should be chewy but not floury.  Remove from the heat. Finally add the flowers, the tarragon, the lemon zest, the rest of the butter and the Parmesan   Cover and leave for a few minutes. Finally give the whole risotto one last stir and serve.

Deep Fried Zucchini Flowers

adapted from The River Café “Classic Italian” Cook Book

Makes 12

12 baby zucchini with flowers attatched
½ cup Tipo 00 flour – or plain flour will do
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Warm water
1 egg white
½ teaspoon sea salt

3 cups sunflower oil for frying

Mix flour and salt in a medium sized bowl. Add oil and enough water to make a thick paste.
Loosen paste with warm water until the mixture has the consistency of very thick cream. Let batter sit for 30 minutes. Beat egg white until it holds stiff peaks. Gently fold into flour batter.

Heat sunflower oil in a large deep frying pan. Use a cooking thermometer to heat oil to 180C
Brush any insects from the flowers and remove the stamen and sepal from inside the flower. Cut the courgettes through lengthways until near the flower but not too close so that the courgette remains in tact. Dip the courgette and its flour into the batter. Drop them into the hot fat and fry until golden. Approximately 2 minutes per side. Turn over and repeat. Don’t crowd the flowers – fry in batches of 4. Remove from oil with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel.
Serve immediately.

Courgette, Chickpea and Preserved Lemon Tagine

Olive oil (or Argan oil if you have it)

3 Courgettes (cut into 1cms half moons)

Two onions, finely chopped

3 cloves of garlic, minced

1 teaspoons of Ras-el-Hanout or more to taste

2 heaped teaspoon of cumin

2 heaped teaspoon of Harissa

Tin of good quality Plum Tomatoes, chopped

Large pinch of saffron

1 can of chickpeas, drained

Two preserved lemons, seeds removed and chopped

One small bunch coriander, finely chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat the oil in a tagine. Fry the the onions.  Cook for about 10 minutes until soft and just about to brown. Add the garlic and the Ras-el-Hanout, the cumin, the harissa and a generous amount of salt and pepper.  Fry for a few minutes to release the spices. Next add the courgettes and fry for a few minutes more. Next add the tin of tomatoes, the saffron and the chickpeas and bring briefly to boil. Reduce heat. Cover, but leave a crack for steam to escape. Simmer over low heat for about 20 minutes or so until the courgettes are tender. Add the preserved lemons and the Coriander.  Adjust seasoning adding more salt or pepper if necessary. Serve with Cous Cous.

Baked Eggs - No Ham!

Another food scare which once again confirms that we just do not know what is in our food unless we prepare it all ourselves.  Hugh, the other half, has taken this one to heart. Even though we never eat ready prepared meals he has decided to not only give up nasty supermarket ham (as I have been telling him to do forever) but to go from one extreme to the other (as always) and give up meat all together (apart from free-range chicken!) 

This is an admirable principle but since it is me that does all the cooking, one that I am obviously going to have to endeavor to cook on my own. Not that it is really such an undertaking.  We don't eat that much meat anyway, preferring to let the vegetables be most prominent and predominant. 

Plus, my current series of cookery lessons  with Riverford, are all vegetarian, so I am always looking for new and exciting ways with vegetables. The challenge will do me good. Hugh expressed an interest in some baked eggs but there are so many variations, it was hard to know where to start. So many countries have there own take. In France alone, they not only have Oeufs en Cocotte but I distinctly remember having to learn endless page after page of variations in Escoffier for my catering exams, from Meurette to Florentine to a la Truffe

Then there is the Basque Piperade - Tomato, Red and Green Pepper Stew with Eggs, or the spicy North African variation of Shakshuka.  Mexico has Huevos Ranchos which is a similar concoction but with the addition of a Tortilla, more of a tomato salsa than a sauce and re-fried beans. But there is no need to stick to a particular recipe - you can add all sorts of herbs or vegetables - Tarragon, broad beans, courgettes, potatoes or kales work particularly well.

If you don't fancy a tomato based sauce then they are equally delicious with Spinach and Parmesan or even some smoked fish.  And of course you could add meat - crispy Parma ham, bacon or Chorizo all work super well with eggs but obviously not if you are a vegetarian who only eats free-range chicken!

Shakshuka
Seves 2
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 red onion (thinly sliced)
3 cloves garlic (very finely chopped)
1 (28 ounce) can good quality plum tomatoes
1  red pepper (cut into thin slices)
1 fresh red chilli (very finely chopped)
2 teaspoons cumin
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 handful fresh coriander (chopped)
4 eggs

Heat the oil in a all metal frying-pan. Add the onions and saute gently until tender, about 5-10 minutes. Add the red pepper, some salt and pepper and cook for another 5 minutes or so. Add the garlic, red chilli and the cumin and saute until fragrant, about a minute. Add the tomatoes and bring to a gentle boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 20-30 minutes. You will need to add  a cup or so of water to stop the sauce over-reducing. Stir in the coriander. Check the seasoning and adjust. Preheat your oven at 180 C. Make a little well in the sauce, where you want to eggs to go and add them carefully. Put in the oven and bake for about 5 minutes, depending on how you like your eggs.

Huevos Ranchos
I like to make a huge batch of beans because I love them.  I use them up in Tortillas or Soup but you can half the recipe if you like.
For the Spicy Black Beans

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 Spanish onion, chopped 
3 sticks of celery, finely chopped
3 large garlic cloves, minced (about 2 tablespoons) 
1 to 2 teaspoons sea salt 
1 tablespoon Chipotle Chilli Paste ( try Trees can Dance)
2 teaspoons ground cumin 
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 
1 teaspoon dried marjoram or handful of fresh oregano
2 tablespoons of tomato puree
500g dried black beans, soaked overnight
Small bunch of coriander, finely chopped
Tomato, Chilli and Coriander Salsa (Pico de Gallo)
Flour Tortillas
Nice ripe avocados

Heat oil in a heavy large saucepan over medium-high heat; add onion and celery. Reduce heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes or until tender. Stir in garlic and cook for about 1 minute. Add the tomato puree and the Chipotle paste, the salt, the herbs and spices. Stir and cook 1 minute. Give everything a good mix and add the drained black beans. Cover with cold water and simmer, uncovered for about 30 - 45 minutes until the beans are cooked. You even want to slightly over-cook the beans for this dish. Remember, they are meant to be re-fried, which is not necessary but they do need to be creamy in texture to bring the whole dish together. Taste and adjust seasoning.  Add more chilli, salt, pepper or cumin if necessary. Finally add the coriander.

Place your tortilla in an all metal frying-pan. Pile some beans on top.  Make a well in a couple of places and crack in your eggs.  Bake in a medium oven until the eggs are just set (or how you like them.)  Serve with plenty of salsa and slices of avocado.

Return of the slow-cooker

I am finding it really hard these days to even get near my computer to write my blog.  It used to be my kids who hijacked the laptop, limiting my writing time to "after bedtime" hours, by which time I was usually ready for bed myself. But now it is our latest addition to our household, Rudy the kitten who has managed to usurp all the computer time.

Since I am still refusing to put on the heating during the day, he has decided that this is the only warm place in the house.  And I have to agree it is getting quite cold out.  The first dusting of snow was on the ground yesterday and it is just the time of year that the slow-cooker is dragged out the cupboard, dusted down and put to good use once more. The house is full of the smell of cooking and everyone gets to come home to a hot dinner. 

I had my heart set on some slow-cooked lamb and usually I choose shoulder as it is so fatty that it always holds up beautifully to hours and hours of gentle heat but Hughie, the other half is incredibly fussy about his meat and shows a huge amount of hostility to even the smallest amount of gristle or fat on his plate.  Wishing to avoid confrontation of any sort, I opted for leg of lamb.  Amazingly, due to the fact that leg is so often on special offer in the supermarkets, this proved to be the same price as shoulder. I was worried that the meat would be dry but after 8 hours in the slow-cooker it was meltingly soft, juicy and tender. I based the whole dish on a variation of Machoui which is a North African recipe for whole slow-cooked lamb, originally sealed in a fire pit which would have effectively created the same environment as the slow-cooker in gently steaming the meat, which what results in it being so succulent  You could equally successfully adapt it for Kleftiko, which means "stolen meat".  This is the Greek version of the same dish. According to legend, this dish would be made with a lamb stolen from a flock as it grazed on a hillside. The thief would cook the meat over many hours in a hole in the ground, sealed with mud so that no steam could escape to give him away."

I wanted it to be a one pot dish. I had a lot of Celeriac in the fridge so I used predominately used that, but this is a good dish to use-up any root vegetables you have to hand.  For the spices I used a mixture of Seasoned Pioneer's Fajita Seasoning Spice Mix and Ras-el-Hanout  Spice Blend, which I especially love with its pretty rose petals. To this I added extra cumin, some freshly ground fennel seeds and some fresh coriander. I could not have been happier with the way this dish turned out. It is barely a recipe though because you can use whatever spices you like, whatever veg you like, whatever beans or you like or maybe chickpeas but whatever you choose, I guarantee it will be delicious.















Slow-cooked Spiced Leg of Lamb with Coriander and Butter Beans
This dish can just as easily be cooked in the oven, on a very low heat, wrapped in tin foil to create the steam.

1 leg of lamb on the bone
1 tin of good quality plum tomatoes, chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
2 bunches Coriander
2 tins Butter Beans

Spices - use what ever you have to hand.  I used - 
2 tbsp cumin
2 tbsp fennel seeds, finely ground
1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp Fajita Seasoning Spice Mix
1 tbsp Ras-el-Hanout  Spice Blend
1 tbsp Sea Salt

Mix the spices all together including the salt. Stab the lamb with a sharp knife is several places, deep into the flesh.  Insert some garlic into each cut and as much spice mix as you can.  Massage the remaining spice mix all over the lamb.  Peel and chop the celeriac, or any other root vegetables, into 1" chunks   Put in the bottom of the slow cooker.  Roughly chop one bunch of coriander and add next.  Add the tin of tomatoes.  Finally top with the leg of lamb.  Cook for 8 - 10 hours on slow.  When the meat is falling off the bone, do just that.  Remove any fat or skin and roughly break up the meat into nice size chunks.  Pour off the sauce and veg into a saucepan.  Skim if necessary, although there shouldn't be very much fat.  Add the drained butter beans and the other bunch of chopped coriander and bring to the boil.  Check the seasoning and when perfect add the meat and bring back to the boil.  (You can do all this in the slow-cooker if you like).  Serve with some Cous Cous or Bulgar Wheat, drizzled with really good extra virgin olive oil.

Hot and Spicy

I am determined to enter my first challenge.  I have been desperately trying to for about six months but it would appear that I am woefully ill-informed in the world of blogging and every time I hear about a challenge, it is because it has just finished.  I have a suspicion that other bloggers try and keep challenges secret, so less people enter and they have more chance of winning.  I know! Shocking!  It's a dog eat dog world, this blogging business.  You can trust no-one.  On the other-hand, maybe I am just completely paranoid.

Anyway, thanks to Farmersgirl and her great new group UK Cooking and Baking Challenges I am no longer in the dark.  Unsurprisingly however, I missed the first Sweet Heat Blogger Challenge set by Lyndsey of Vanilla Clouds and Lemon Drops fame.  But I am super-excited to say that I am in time for challenge Sweet Heat # 2 - "Spicy Soup."

This soup, interestingly enough started life as a made-up recipe for Harissa.  I make it exactly the same way as the soup, roasting the peppers, garlic, chilli, onion and cumin and then whizzing up the whole lot up with some olive oil, lemon juice (or preserved lemons) and fresh coriander.  I would use this to maybe marinade a chicken or stir into cous cous with some roast winter vegetables.  But somehow along the way this recipe evolved into a soup.  With just the addition of chickpeas it has been a winner at my Riverford lunches and a great way of using up peppers. And it is really delicious.  I made a a little extra effort for my first challenge and added some of my crispy roasted chickpeas.  I blogged about these a few weeks ago but this time I seasoned them with some delicious Ras-el Hanout from Seasoned Pioneers.  The combination of the soothing, earthy spices and the floral notes of the rose petals really enlighten this bowl of comfort.

Spicy Red Pepper, Chickpea and Coriander Soup

3 large red peppers (cut in half and de-seeded)

2 red onions (peeled and quartered)

4 cloves garlic (peeled)

1 -2 Fresh Red Chilli (de-seeded and roughly chopped)

3 teaspoons of cumin

Extra virgin olive oil

2 tins of chickpeas

Bunch coriander (roughly chopped)

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas 4.
Put the peppers, onions,  garlic and chilli in a dish.  Sprinkle with cumin, salt, pepper and drizzle with a good slug of olive oil. Wrap in tin foil and put in the oven for about one to two hours until really soft.  Tip into a saucepan and cover with water.  About  2 pints.  Add the drained chickpeas and bring to the boil.  Add the coriander and give a good stir.  Liquidise with a hand blender or in a liquidiser.  Adjust seasoning to taste. 

Its a Wrap

Right.  This is going to be the last "wrap" post for sometime.  There are only so many wraps one can make and it is is time to move on, but before I do, I have to share with you the ultimate kebab - the Chicken Shawarma. 

Now, I know that a Shawarma should really be cooked by alternately stacking strips of fat and pieces of seasoned meat (beef, lamb or marinated chicken) on a stick and roasting it slowly on all sides in front of a flame for several hours.  And I know that that is not entirely practical for the average kitchen but what I am really trying to recreate here is the wrap, stuffed full of aromatically spiced roast meat, lashings of Tahini or Hummus, a juicy tomato, onion and cucumber salad, shredded lettuce and heaps of chilli sauce.  Rightly or wrongly, that's what I want, when I think - Shawarma.  

The first thing you must do is track down some really good Arabic flat bread which is called Khobez.  Do not settle for pitta. I know you can make your own but what I love about knocking up a kebab for dinner is that it is so damn quick and easy.  If you add, making flat bread to the equation, suddenly its not so damn quick and easy, plus a good pitta is easy to make but a really good flatbread is something else.
 

Anyway, find your nearest Arabic shop, be it Lebanese or Turkish, or maybe you have a good Greek or Cypriot shop near by. (Check out my directory). They are all sure to sell good flatbreads or wraps for Kebabs.  Once you have found them, stock up, because they freeze really well and whilst you are there, pick up some Hummus, unless you want to make your own, and some long green pickled chillis, unless you pickle your own, and if you are really lucky or lazy, depending on how you look at it, some Shawarma Total Seasoning, or you can make your own.  There are a billion different recipes for the spice mix but it usually contains a selection of Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Paprika, Sumac, Cardamom, Clove, Cumin and Cayenne Pepper.  It is this unusual, perfumed blend of spices that makes this dish so delicious. Marinate your chicken, leave it overnight and the next day, you can assemble a fantastic meal in a matter of minutes.  A kebab is even great for entertaining.  Everyone just helps themselves. Because everyone likes their kebabs to be just the way they like them. 


I have entered this recipe for Sweet Heat # 5 over at Vanilla Clouds and Lemon Drops because it is such an effortless recipe to rustle up for friends and goes down great with a couple of beers.



Cheats Chicken Shawarma
The spice mix is not exact.  Experiment and find what you like best. You could use a Baharat blend.

Serves 4
4 Chicken breasts (free-range or organic)
1 tsp. Nutmeg
1 tsp. Cinnamon
1 tsp.  Paprika
1 tsp. Sumac
1 tsp. Cardamom
1 tsp. Clove
2 tsp. Cumin
1 tsp. Cayenne Pepper
2 tsp. salt
Olive oil

Trim the chicken breasts and cut in half lenghtways. Coat each piece in spices.  Leave overnight, marinating in the fridge.  Next day, drizzle lightly with olive oil and either barbecue or grill over a high heat.  You can also try roasting the chicken in a very hot oven.  It should only take ten minutes or so to cook as the pieces are quite thin.  Remove from the heat and allow to rest for a few minutes.  Cut into strips on a wooden chopping board.  Serve with plenty of chilli sauce, shredded lettuce, hummus and salad.

Iraqi Quest

It's the school holidays.  Every morning begins at 7.30 with "What are we doing today, Mum?"  And it's non-stop from there.  Constant demands and questions and squabbling.  I hardly have the time to think.

Today its the long promised trip to the swimming slides at Guildford Spectrum.  I can hardly wait!  And first I have got to get something for dinner.  Asda or Tesco on the A3?  I don't think I could bare it.  Suddenly I remember Soor Market.  Just off the A3, amongst the suburban sprawl on the outskirts of Kingston is the most fantastically stocked Iraqi supermarket.  It is so unpromising looking from the outside, yet as soon as I am inside, my spirits lift. The wonderful array of sophisticated and exotic flavours, transports me back to a golden age, an ancient civilisation, rich with culture and diversity.



Whilst the children amuse themselves choosing dates and pistachio nuts, I wonder amongst the isles. From the fantastic selection of fruit and vegetables, beautiful baby aubergines, pomegranates and chillies to the massive fresh bunches of dill, mint and coriander, everything is superb.  Aisle after isle of nuts and spices, rice, lentils, dried pulses, flower waters, breads and dried fruits.  There were about ten different types of Bulgur wheat alone and a huge selection of dried limes. 

I am not going to lie to you and tell you how welcoming the staff are.  Instead, I have to admit that they actually look somewhat surly and eyed me suspiciously as I wondered around their shop. But I was very keen to make sure that the rice dish that I was planning to cook was authentically Iraqi, so I questioned the man on the checkout in some depth.  Usually talking about food really opens people up.  Suddenly, someone you have never met is sharing intimate family recipes with you, in great detail.  This chap however, did not warm to my interrogation.  He was a man of few words, yet I could tell by his adamant nodding and shaking of his head to my questions, that he was as passionate about his food as anyone.  "Should there be any fresh herbs" - absolutely not, "Nuts and raisins?" - a definite yes, "Saffron?"- absolutely.  Finally, he warmed to me sufficiently, to suggest without me even asking, a different brand of saffron to the one I had chosen.  There was a choice of at least eight different varieties. 

I have been craving Biryani and Dal for a few days now.  I think the hint of autumn coming and a slight chill in the air has left me yearning for warming spices and filling carbohydrates.  I found a lovely sounding Iraqi lentil soup recipe.  I know lentil soup does not sound that exciting but honestly, with the blend of earthy and aromatic spices, it really hits the spot.   Next I found a really great recipe in a book called the "Iraqi Family Cookbook",  for Saffron Rice with Meat Dressing.  I give you that it doesn't sound that great.  It does however sound better in Iraqi "Timman Z'affaran".  It is in fact a beautiful rice dish perfumed with cardamom, saffron and rosewater. .  Anyway, I made a few adjustments to the recipe and served it with an Arabic Salad.  It was absolutely delicious. 

Now, what are we doing tomorrow?



I bought a spice blend called "Seven Spices Plus" which was really lovely in both recipes. It is a combination of Allspice, Nutmeg, Cumin, Coriander, Cinnamon, Cardamon, Pepper, Ginger and Clove. If you cannot find it you could make your own or try Baharat Spice Blend

Iraqi Lentil Soup

I found this recipe on the most fantastic blog "It's sooo good!™ Moti's Iraqi cuisine. He'll tell you what you can do. And you'll like it! " And I did. Don't forget the lemon. It really lifts this soup.

400 g (14 oz) red lentils
10 cups of water
1 whole onion (peeled and finely chopped)
4 cloves of garlic (peeled and finely chopped)
2 carrots (peeled and finely chopped)
6 sticks celery (chopped)
1 potato (peeled and roughly chopped)
juice from 1 lemon
1/2 cup chopped fresh coriander (optional)
2 teaspoons Seven Spices or Baharat Spice Blend or to taste
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
salt to taste

First fry the onion, carrot and celery in a some oil until soft and just beginning to caramelise. Add the garlic and spices. Fry for a minute more. Add the lentils and the water. Stir well and add the potato. Boil gently over a low heat, uncovered for about 30 - 40 minutes until the lentils and potato is cooked. Using a hand blender, purée the ingredients together with the lemon juice and coriander.Taste the soup and add any necessary salt or more spice if necessary. Serve with a garnish of coriander, yogurt, or just on its own.

Timman Z'affaran

2 cups basmati long grain rice
4 cups water
½ tsp salt
a pinch of saffron threads
4 cardamom pods, seeds removed and ground
¼ cup ghee
1/3 cup sliced almonds or pine nuts

Rinse the rice until clear and soak for 30 minutes. Drain. Pour the ghee in a pot and sauté rice for one minute. Add salt, saffron and cardamom and pour in the water. Bring it to boil. Cover and cook at a slow boil for 15 to 20 minutes. Toast the almonds or pinenuts in the oven until golden brown. Be careful not to burn.

For the lamb
1/2 pound ground lamb
1/2 cup chopped onion
2 cloves garlic
1/2 tsp salt
2 tsp Seven Spices or Baharat Spice Blend
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2tbs rose water
1/3 cup currants

Saute meat in a little ghee in a non stick pan. Remove and drain. In the same pan add the onions with a little more ghee. Keep sautéing until the onions are golden brown. Add the garlic, salt and spices. Fry for a few minutes more. Add the currants and the rosewater and remove from the heat. Add a little water if very dry. On a large plate, dish up the rice, spoon over the meat mixture and finally sprinkle over the toasted almonds. Serve with Arabic salad.

Arabic Salad

4 small cucumbers or 2 large, cut lengthways, de-seeded, cut legthways again and chopped
4 medium tomatoes, chopped into bite size chunks
1/2 cup finely chopped parsley
1 small finely diced red onion
1 teaspoon salt
1 medium lemon, juice of
1 tablespoon olive oil
Pomegranate seeds (optional)
Pinch of Sumac (optional)

Place diced cucumber and tomatoes in bowl. Add parsley and onion. Just before serving, add the salt, lemon and olive oil and combine all ingredients. Serve in small bowls to accompany rice dishes.

A Mean Marinade

Last week I was cooking Tandoori Chicken, because it was the best recipe for marinated barbecued chicken, that I could think of.  This year the supermarket have gone mad for marinades. Supermarkets are permanently on the lookout for new trends. In this way they can spot whatever it is that you like to do, be it barbecuing, growing your own vegetables, making jam or baking cupcakes. Then they repackage it and sell it back to you, at a profit. I hate it.  I don't know why but it almost feels like an invasion of my mind.

Anyway, as summer came with unsubstantiated promises of al fresco eating and barbecues, so the shelves filled up with every marinade ever thought of, from every country in the world. From Argentina to Japan, Morocco to India. Every now and then, I was tempted by some exotic sounding combination, no-doubt lured by some enticing packaging. I momentarily forgot that I could just have easily knocked up whatever marinade it was myself, in about 10 minutes, from ingredients I probably had at home already. Anyway, they were all, without fail, revolting. Too much sugar, too much vinegar, unsubtle flavours, herbs that had become pickled and lost all freshness and zest. So, just to remind myself never to do that again, I have written out a few of my favourite recipes. 

The first is Chimichurri which is a sauce and also used as a marinade for grilled meat. It is originally from Argentina and Uruguay, but is also used in countries as far north as Nicaragua and Mexico.  It is vibrant and fresh with the Paprika adding a smoky note and it works excellently with Steak on the barbecue.  You can use Picante or Dulce Paprika depending on your taste.  I prefer the extra chilli kick.  There is no need to marinade your meat for any length of time.  Just coat your steaks and wait for 10 minutes or so.  The extra marinade can be used as a sauce on the side.

Chermoula is the North African variant for fish. It is almost identical to Chimichurri, but replaces vinegar for lemon juice which is more subtle with delicate fish flavours.  Once again there is no need to marinade for more than 10 minutes.  Just coat and cook.  Never leave fish or meat in a marinade containing salt for any length of time as it will just draw out the juices.



In my opinion, lamb needs nothing more than a combination of olive oil and lemon juice with lots of freshly ground black pepper, loads of Rosemary and garlic.  In this case the meat should be left in the marinade over-night to allow the flavours to penetrate and the lemon acts to tenderise the meat which makes it all the more delicious.  Season with salt just before cooking. 



Finally everyone need a good rib recipe for the barbie season.  I have really battled over the years to find a recipe that I liked.  I found the Chinese one's were often too heavy on the Hoi Sin and the Five Spice (although I do recommend my Char-Siu Pork ) and the American versions, laden with Tomato Ketchup and Malt Vinegar.  So I was delighted to find a fantastic Japanese alternative.  Although this recipe does contain some honey it balances beautifully with the other ingredients. 

A Japanese Barbecue is called a Yakiniku and the meat would be further dipped in a Tare Sauce before eating. Personally I use this marinade to cook ribs which I slow-bake first submerged in marinade for a few hours until the meat is beginning to flake.  I then pour off the excess sauce and reduce it in a pan until you have a sticky, delicious  sauce.  Let the ribs cool before cutting up, so that they don't fall to pieces.  Finally I briefly put them on the barbie until hot and smoky and serve with extra sauce.  You don't have to do this.  It is still delicious served straight from the oven.  Just slow-cook them for even longer.

All of these recipes are dead simple, so there is no need to ever succumb to a marinade in jar ever again.  And with the money that you save you can invest in better meat.  Remember, please try to buy free-range when you can and Organic if possible.  This really is something that is worth the extra money.

Chimichurri Sauce

1 large bunch coriander
1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 bay leaves
6 cloves garlic
1 1/2 teaspoons smoked paprika, sweet or spicy
1 fresh red chilli, roughly chopped or 1/2 teaspoon Cayenne pepper
1 small bunch fresh Oregano
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1  cup extra-virgin olive oil
1-2 teaspoon salt (or more to taste)
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Whiz up all ingredients in a liquidiser or with a hand-held blender until smooth.  Season to taste with salt.

Chermoula

1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (about 3 lemons)
3/4 cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic, finely minced
1/2 teaspoon sweet or spicy Paprika
1/2 teaspoon Cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon Ground Cumin
1 large bunch of Coriander leaves
1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley leaves
1/2 teaspoon Ras el Hanout (optional)
1-2 tsp salt or to taste

Whiz up all ingredients in a liquidiser or with a hand-held blender until smooth. Season to taste with salt.

Harumi's Barbecue Sauce
from Everyday Harumi: Simple Japanese Food for Family and Friends
by Harumi Kurihara

(Personally I whiz this all up with a hand blender which means you don't have to grate anything.)

100ml red wine
2 tbsp honey
70g caster sugar
200ml soy sauce
1 tbsp miso (any type)
60g apple, grated
60g onion, grated
2 tablespoons garlic, grated
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, grated
2 tbsp sesame oil
3 tbsp ground toasted sesame seeds

Put the red wine in a small pan and bring to a boil. Simmer it over low heat for 1 minute to let the alcohol evaporate. Add the honey, sugar, coarse sugar, soy sauce and miso, mix and boil again. When the sugar has dissolved, turn the heat off. When the mixture has cooled down, add the grated apple, onion, garlic and ginger, sesame oil and ground sesame seeds, and mix together.  The flavour will improve if left overnight.  It can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 10 days.

A Loaf or Three

I have been constantly feeling bad, ever since “Lamenting Lost Lebanese” that I did not include a Pitta Recipe.  What good are all those delicious dips without a warm piece of fresh pitta bread to dunk into them.  So here it is, and if you have never made pitta before you will be amazed how it actually works.  It puffs up, just as it should, and sinks again, to leave a perfect pocket, to be stuffed full of kebab or falafel, dollops of hummus, heaps of salad and lashings of chilli sauce. 

About 20 years ago I was lucky enough to be sent by The River Café, for a stage at Chez Panisse in Berkley, San Francisco, so I came very familiar with the sourdough concept.  And I can still remember the joy of sitting in Fisherman’s Wharf, looking out over the boats and digging into a hollowed-out sourdough loaf, filled to the brim with hot, creamy, smoky clam chowder.  In fact I can feel another post coming on! 

Then, many years later, I had the pleasure of working at Gail Stephens, Baker and Spice (sadly no more) and got used to eating fantastic Potato and Rosemary Bread or Pain au Lavain daily.  Thankfully The Bread Factory, originally Gail Force, lives on.  I own a well thumbed copy of Baker and Spice “Baking with Passion”, by Dan Lepard but I am ashamed to say that my life now allows little time for Biga acida and wild yeasts. 

So, when looking for a suitable rye bread recipe for my Ultimate Salt-beef sandwich,  I was thrilled to find a fantastic “Cucumber Pickle Juice Rye Loaf” by the very same, fabulous (as Gail would say) Dan Lepard in his book “The Handmade Loaf”.  The genius of using the juice out of the pickle cucumber jar, utilizing something which used to go down the drain, as I finish yet another jar of dill pickles, is brilliant.  But even more so, is that the juice acts as the souring and therefore replaces the need of a “sourdough” starter.  I have to admit that on recommendation I added a little more yeast and I still only got one decent sized loaf but it had great texture and tasted delicious.  My brisket in still in the brine but it is ready on Saturday and I hope to share the results with you very soon.

Finally, my own tried and trusted “Challah” recipe, which I have made time and time again.  I am not a great baker but I love going to the Village Bakery, still hanging on in there, sandwiched between “Paul” and “Le Pain de Quotidien”, and buying my fresh yeast. I love the fact that it costs 30p an ounce, in an age where nothing seems to cost any less than a fiver.  I love the smell of freshly baked bread filling the house on a Friday night and there is no better way to unite the whole family, and start the weekend than the taste of that slightly sweet, deliciously soft bread, and the obligatory  glass or two of wine.  Good Shobbas!

Cucumber Pickle Juice Rye loaf

by Dan Lepard

200g toasted rye flour [40%] (see below)

300g strong white flour [60%]

3/4 tsp fine sea salt

350g cucumber pickle juice at 20ºC (70%)

1 1/4 tsp fresh yeast, crumbled (1%) (I added a little extra)

10g [2 good sprigs) fresh dill, chopped (2%)

To toast the rye flour, preheat the oven to 200'C. Spread the

rye flour in a thin layer over a baking sheet, and bake for 15 minutes, or until the

flour has turned a light tannish brown. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

Combine the flours, and mix with the salt. In another bowl whisk the pickle juice

with the yeast and dill. Mix this liquid and the flour together with your hands,

squeezing it through your fingertips. When roughly combined, cover the bowl and

leave it for 10 minutes. Tip the dough out on to a lightly oiled (with corn or olive

oil) work-surface and knead gently for 10-15 seconds. Return the dough to the

bowl, leave for a further 10 minutes, then knead once more for 10-15 seconds.

Return the dough to the bowl, leave for 10 minutes again, then knead one final

time for 10-15 seconds.

Give the dough a turn and repeat after 30 minutes and 1 hour.

Original recipe says “Divide the dough into two equal pieces, and shape each into a round” (but I didn’t, I just made one).  Place both (one) on a flour-dusted baking sheet, leaving a space between for the loaves to grow.  Cover and leave for 1 hour, or until doubled in size.

Preheat the oven to 210"C/'110'F/gas mark 6%.Cut a slash across the centre of

each loaf. Bake in the centre of the oven for 55 minutes, until the loaves are a

good rich brown colour and, when tapped on the bottom, sound hollow. Leave to

cool on a wire rack.

Pitta Bread

Makes 12 soft, yeasty little flat breads. Serve with a Greek salad or dips

375g white plain flour

1 ½ tsp fine-ground sea salt

1 ½ tsp white sugar

1 ½ tsp fast-action dry yeast

250 ml tepid water

1 tbsp olive oil

Mix the flour, salt, sugar and yeast together in a bowl. Stir in the warm water and olive oil and mix until it comes together as a dough.  Add extra flour if sticky, extra water if dry. Knead on a lightly floured surface for 10 min until smooth. Place in a large, clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap and leave to rise for 2 hours in a warm place. Punch the dough down, and knead for 1 minute. Cut the dough into 12 pieces, shape into balls, and set aside for 10 min. Heat the oven to 200C/Gas 6. Roll each ball into a fine, flat oval. Bake on a lightly floured tray for 6 to 7 min, until puffy, soft and pale. Wrap in a slightly damp tea towel until cool. To serve, place in a hot, dry pan for a minute or two until warm.

Challah

This is a big batch of bread. You don’t have to make all of it.  It is about 6 loaves but  I like to freeze the ones I don’t need, once they are proved.  This way, I can remove one from the freezer, defrost, plait and bake at a later date, for perfect instant, fresh warm bread.

2oz Fresh Yeast

3 ½  cups warm water

¾ cup sugar

1 cup oil

6 eggs beaten

1 ½ tablespoons salt

13-14 cups flour

1 egg, beaten to glaze

Poppy seeds or sesame seeds to garnish

In a large mixing bowl combine yeast and 1 tablespoon sugar in the warm water.  Set aside for 5 to 10 minutes.  Once the yeast starts to bubble add the remaining sugar and half of the flour.  Mix well.  Add the beaten eggs and oil and mix well.  Knead in the remaining flour and salt, slowly until the dough is light and easy to knead.  Knead well for a further 10 minutes.  Place dough in an oiled bowl.  Cover with oiled clingfilm.  Leave to rise in a warm spot for 1 ½ hours.  Punch down and separate Challah (with a blessing).

Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and divide into 6 sections.  Divide each section into three.  Roll each into a long sausage shape about as long as your fingertips to your elbow.  Join at one end and plait until you reach the other end. Tuck under and place on a greased baking tray.  Allow to rise for 45 minutes.  Preheat oven to 170º-180 ºC.  Brush loaves with beaten egg and sprinkle with seeds.  Bake until golden brown, about 30 to 45 minutes. The loaf is cooked when taped on the base, it sounds hollow. Remove from tray and cool on a cooling tray.

It also makes the best toast.